Every now and then, we hear someone singing odes to the beauty of Pakistan’s North-West regions. Be it by one of those recent sing-along tourism promos running on nearly every news network these days, after a prolonged wave of violence in Malakand Division, or some bunch of local yahoos who’d just returned from a trip from any of the numerous valleys and lakes. The fact remains that the actual beauty and splendour of these areas is still quite underrated, despite all such praises. Even though the last few years’ armed conflicts have labelled the entire region as a no-go zone, especially in the minds of foreign tourists, the government along with its various tourism departments and foreign donors has been trying in vain to rekindle the industry, only to be hit by one calamity after another. But after, and still, suffering through a horrific wave of militancy and, only recently, the devastating floods, it’s the unflinching spirit and hospitality of the people that has made places like Buner, Swat and the whole of Malakand Division generally so much more timeless and endearing. With epic vistas of crystal lakes nestled between the green, snowcapped mountains of Kohistan on one side, it’s an experience that is truly felt within the very depths of one’s soul – if not just through one’s senses. The fresh alpine smell, the cool untainted air, along with actual mountain spring water, all quite surprisingly exist within the borders of our very own country. Even though you hear about it often, you never really fully understand it until you yourself are standing there right in the middle of Chagarzo Valley in Buner district, with nothing but the vault of the clear blue sky, mostly overshadowed by clouds being challenged by those majestic peaks. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Kamran Khan[/caption] The farther up one goes, the more one is challenged by nature at its finest. Even when starting the journey up the Chagharzai road (one of the new six tehsils in the district), located at a distance of over 100 kilometres from Sawaray, one is greeted to a splendid change in scenery, even when going as far up as Shangla. Then on to Shehdiser, which is at around 8,000 feet above sea level, from where on only four wheeler jeeps, the non-customs-paid, CG 125, diesel-run kind, can tackle the teetering slopes for a memorable ride up to the string of beautiful areas in the region. Only when one has experienced that thrilling jeep ride, or on motorbike with skilled drivers through sharp ravine sloping down to a joint, making ways from different springs at the middle, and the daunting mountings jutting out on both sides, one from the Hazara Division, second from Shangla, third from Swat while fourth from Swabi, that one can truly claim to have adventured up the fantastic North-West.  The ride up from Swat to Buner and Shangla, over precarious mountain passes, is a trip that deserves a solid place on anyone’s bucket list. Unfortunately, in the Chagharzai Valley there are no motels or cafes to cater specifically to the tourist industry. But nothing can match experiencing for the first time, the thrill of the adventure and the magnificent weather, even in the searing heat prevalent in the settled parts of the Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa(K-P). Wrapped in local tales, stunning views and a splendour of its own, this area is nestled up at nearly 8,000 feet, and the tourism industry of the area needs the attention of the government to lure in local and foreign tourists. And just when one’s taking in the whole journey along with the spectacular view, the locals of the area would cheekily smile and say how there are even more beautiful areas, if one was to adventure even higher and farther away from commercial conveniences and unsightly pollution. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Kamran Khan[/caption] After traversing through even more precarious, yet breathtaking heights, alpine forests and vast green plains does one take a step back in time. Where, beyond the odd rooftops made from shutters or vague tire tracks, there’s no sign of modern development. No roads, no electricity, no cell phone signals – a place where one is in the truest sense isolated from the troubles and cares of the world. With fields of brightly coloured flowers, and wild goats grazing on top of the mountains, it’s almost unreal considering the kind of world one comes from to these places. And to see all that beauty reflected so perfectly in the still, silent waters of the lakes is an epiphany in itself. Seeing the locals living their lives with such simplicity is a sight of relaxation on its own. Local farmers, herders, craftsmen all living as they have done for centuries, some even in complete isolation. It’s only when one tries to perhaps picture oneself through their eyes that one’s cares and troubles come into perspective. When one’s love for family, good company and the simpler bounties of life such as good health or just the realisation of being well and alive are truly appreciated. Be it a place to kick back and relax or a place where enthusiasts can go fishing, hunting, or hiking on any of the splendid hills or mountain passes, the Chagharzai Valley bears testament to the heights of inspiration that can be found in our country.

Having lived in Paris (well, not in the heart of the city but in the suburbs) for over eight years, I can safely and confidently say that I know this city and its off shoots quite well. This is not exactly a tourist guide but my humble attempt to write a few lines about this city for those who are not in-the-know. I came here in 2007 when I hardly spoke more than a few basic lines in French. I had simply taken a crash course in French from Alliance Française, in London, before starting for France. I had been here as a tourist way back in 2001, only for three days but that’s hardly enough to get a feel of the place. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] The main entrance of the chateau of Parc de Thoiry. Photo: Supriya Arcot[/caption] To begin with, the French are not as implicit (to the extent of being ambiguous) as the English. They are quite open and explicit in their communication, much like South Asians. If they don’t like something, they say it bluntly, unlike the English who will raise perhaps one, and just one, eyebrow to show their displeasure. The French are fiercely possessive about their language. They don’t tolerate its slaughter and, unlike the English, will rush to correct you when they hear you struggling with it. Clumsy French is more welcome than perfect English here. The people are quite accessible otherwise, though they don’t go out of their way to befriend you or help you. Luckily, it took us a very short while to settle in, thanks to our neighbours and friends, because we managed to make some. Belongings Paris, even today, after the birth of newer and more enthralling countries  like Herzegovina (it’s the most exotic country name I could think of), tops in the number of tourists by a very big margin year after year. The Eiffel Tower and Nice (located down south and has a more Mediterranean climate) are popular destinations for marriages. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="450"] A house in Les Marais. Photo: Supriya Arcot[/caption] If you are here as a tourist, then you’d be advised to be careful with your belongings. No place on Earth is immune to cheating and robbery, and Paris is no exception. Central Paris, especially its tourist spots, is filled with gypsies, illegal immigrants, beggars (yes, you read that right – they do exist in these parts of the world too) and street walkers, to use a polite term. They are ‘invisible’, meaning they don’t carry boards around their necks. It’s tough to identify them unless you are in-the-know. It will do a world of good for a traveller to carry his belongings safely. A good idea, which works for me, is to carry a smaller wallet with your ‘real’ essentials inside your coat and carry a bigger or eye catching bag, with expired credit cards and a few pennies, hanging on your shoulder. It’s normal and common to feel a happy lump in your throat when you hear your own vernacular or a familiar language like Tamil, Punjabi, Arabic or Bengali. One needs to be careful not to get too carried away in conversations with such ‘known’ folk. A stranger is a danger, regardless of what language he speaks. Public transport The city of Paris is well-knit by a network of metro lines, main lines, trams and buses. You are never more than 10 minutes away from the nearest public transport stop. It’s a city that never sleeps so the lines run very late into the night and start as early as 4am. The ‘innocent’ newcomer can be forgiven for believing that Paris is all, if not all then mostly, about sipping wine, nay and merlot from crystal glasses and viewing the Eiffel tower from his or her (hotel) room with a view. There are some pockets in the heart of the city which are best avoided after sunset. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] A train station in the city. Photo: Reuters[/caption] The ‘locals’ here are the avoidable types who are street smart and dangerous, each one more sinister than the other. Most of the women and men are dressed to the hilt with shiny gold earrings, bracelets, hair pieces, fake long hair, jazzy, shiny colourful satins and faux leather shoes, pants and jackets on any part of the day or year. They spell danger from far. I am sure most of them work hard for their money, whichever way you look at it, but it’s better to stay away from them as much as possible. They know the city and the metros like the back of their hands. They don’t belong to any particular race or creed .They come in all colours and sizes .They will not hesitate to pinch or punch their immediate neighbour in a crowded and packed compartment for the silliest reason. I can narrate many first-hand incidents of acid and knife attacks in broad daylight. Be prepared to hear innumerable languages and equally innumerable accents of any given language. Even after so many years in Paris, when I hear English in any accent I feel a nostalgic lump in my throat and I am reminded of the decade I spent in England. Eating out Paris is known for its cafes. Crêpes and galettes are the specialty here, along with their wine and cheese. The city never sleeps, I repeat. Even when travelling in the dead of the night, you can see people hanging out in pubs and bars having a ‘cuppa’, many by themselves – quietly contemplating. If you are lucky to get into a Michelin star restaurant, then the experience is worth it. In my entire life, I have lunched only once in such a restaurant. It was in L’Arpége run by Alain Passard and it was worth every cent the €600 the bill came to, for two people. He grows his own vegetables and is a specialist in vegetarian dishes, which is rare for the French. Even to this day, after so much publicity and awareness of vegetarianism, they look at you in shock when you say you are a pure vegetarian.

“What? Not even eggs? What do you do for proteins?” they ask.

 “Paris is always a good idea.”

Pakistan’s current political situation discussed in dining rooms, gatherings and media is beginning to resemble an advanced version of Chinese Whispers; a popular game played worldwide in which entertainment is derived from the errors in retelling a message through a series of shared whispers.  Regardless of the authenticity of the source, people are increasingly discussing the deteriorating law and order situation, Talibanisation, bombings and violent street clashes in Pakistan, all of which paint a disturbing picture of what is actually happening in the country. Despite the dismal pictures being painted and reinforced by my surroundings, I wanted to go explore my country and see it for myself. Thus, along with a group of nine people, I embarked on a New Year’s Trip to Azad Kashmir. Almost everyone I encountered prior to leaving Karachi questioned my decision and asked about the safety of the trip. Given that December 16, 2014 was marked as a Black Day for Pakistan, due to the unfortunate Peshawar Attack, perhaps it was my immunity to violence or a positive mind-set which emanated from my successful trip to Shogran (Kaghan Valley Tour) that I did not waver. We flew from Karachi to Islamabad and then onward to Muzaffarabad by road to begin our adventure. The trip was planned by our tour guide, The Trekkerz, so that we spent every night at a new location and woke up to a different view. What remained consistent was the bonfire we sat around every night due to the near zero degree (plus or minus a few) temperature. The destinations included Keran, Sharda, Kail or Kel, Upper Neelum and Kutton. The rest houses offered stunning views and basic amenities. This entire region was closed off for tourism prior to 2006 when a cease fire was signed between India and Pakistan. Should you decide to go on this tour, this will explain the numerous checkpoints and signs which read “No Photography”. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Sana Dadabhoy[/caption] As we passed through Sharda, we stopped to visit the remains of a 1000-year-old monastery. You can still make out the pillars and a little bit of the architecture. It makes you envy the monks for the views they enjoyed while studying, and explains how they managed to be so positive and peaceful as well. It was there at a local tea house that I took a picture, on which my friend would later comment and say,

“It’s interesting how when you get closer to China, the architecture changes.”

“Darakht zameen ka zevar hai” (The earth adorns itself with trees) “Humaray kudrati vasail aanay wali nasloon ki amanat hai” (Our natural resources belong to our future generations, or rather, we have a moral responsibility to leave the world in a better condition for our future generations.)

Moderate or cold weather is best for sight-seeing, which is why many people opt to travel in the January-February period. This February, I decided I needed to discover my very own motherland, Sindh – a place I had only read about in historical or archaeological books and could not find tales of any visitor’s journey, unlike the rest of the places in the world. Though I haven’t travelled that excessively but I always had a desire to explore or at least see the province that I inhabit. Having had my ancestors serving at top bureaucrat posts throughout the province, with their names still mentioned in their respective offices, I was even keener to explore Sindh. And that is when I decided to take a trip to the heart of my province; mainly the cities of Larkana, Sukkur and Khairpur. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="536"] A landscape view of the Bhutto family mausoleum in Larkana. Photo: Syed Areeb[/caption] Travelling has its own charm; things that seem ordinary on a regular day become spots of wonder. For example, waking up in the middle of the night to arrange duffle bags in the car-boot and leaving as soon as the first ray of light cracks the night sky in itself is exhilarating. On any other day, I would have cringed at the thought of waking up this early, but for this trip, I couldn’t contain my excitement. Passing through the districts of Jamshoro, Mitiari, Nawabshah and Dadu, I felt I had either just woken up to take in the exquisite beauty of our country, or that I had been transported to a different country. The mountainous terrain, folding itself along the road as we head from Jamshoro towards Sehwan is a sight to be seen. My first stop was at MohenjoDaro, an archaeological site believed to be the remains from 1500 BC. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="533"] The stupa as it is on the Rs20 note. Photo: Syed Areeb[/caption] While taking in the scenery was overwhelming in itself, I couldn’t help but wonder just how people lived here thousands of years ago. The Great Bath, the rest rooms and everything else were exemplary, even in today’s age of technology. This heritage, in my opinion, is a great aid to us for the advancement of technology and life style. I was told by the tour guide that the swimming pools we see at five star hotels were made keeping the model of the Great Bath in mind. Though I have no source to verify his words, it is not hard to believe it considering the unique construction design that the Great Bath had had been built many human races ago. It had a sauna, changing rooms and a shower area exactly like we see today at posh swimming clubs. The green park that surrounds MohenjoDaro also adds to the beauty of the site giving the otherwise deserted look a much more pleasant vibe. The Sambara Hotel of Larkana of the tourism department where I stayed was a cosy place, I would recommend in case you plan your trip that way. They served great food too! [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="536"] A pleasant morning in the lawn of Sambara hotel, Larkana. Photo: Syed Areeb[/caption] The next morning, we headed to Sukkur and visited the Sukkur Barrage, another master piece of architecture and engineering. The Sadh Bela temple in Sukkur is an inherited temple from centuries ago and is considered scared for many Hindu pilgrims. Situated on an island-like structure, the temple is a beautiful sight to see, especially before sunset. It is a set in designs of art and architecture, preserving within it many important emblems of the Hindumat. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] The Shiv mandir and its ganga. Photo: Syed Areeb[/caption] On the last day of our trip, we went to Khairpur – a district known for its date palms. Formerly a prince state and known as Faiz Mahal, its king and his family still reside in this mahal. In fact, the king is even referred to as ‘His Highness’. Although it is not a visiting site or government property, it should most definitely be considered as a place on your ‘Must see’ list. Just seeing its elegant design and structure under the morning light is a delight. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="536"] The Faiz Mahal. Photo: Syed Areeb[/caption] We continued our visit at Khairpur by going to the Mehrano Shikargah which has hundreds of different kinds of deer and other rare animal species and moved on towards Kot Diji Fort. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="533"] Kot Digi - a view from its entrance gate. Photo: Syed Areeb[/caption] Contrary to what people believe about interior Sindh, especially about the route being problematic, unsafe and crooked, the Mehran Highway was anything but that description. Smooth and infrastructurally sounds, it was a pleasure to drive on it. With regards to security, I was travelling during the day and didn’t feel insecure or in harm’s way for a second. People who think touring Sindh is a waste of a vacation are missing out on an experience of a lifetime. Take my advice, make the plunge, give your own country a chance and I assure you, you will not be disappointed. Far from it actually. If Sindh can manage to keep its law and order situation in check, tourism in the province will skyrocket. This province has its own flair, culture and beauty, definitely worth seeing.

The unusual series of attacks on cellular towers in different parts of Indian-administered Kashmir Valley has already resulted in the killings of two civilians. And furthermore, the way these attacks have been taking place is also very dubious in my opinion. Many appear clueless about the perpetrators, despite claims made by Lashkar-e-Islam, a lesser-known outfit that had purportedly circulated threat-posters to cellular companies, their employees, and local owners who usually rent out space for installing towers in their compounds, in North Kashmir. These attacks allegedly carried out by Lashkar-e-Islam, which seem to have categorically asked the mobile operators, vendors, and their employees to shut their businesses in the region, led to the deaths of Ghulam Hassan Dar in Sopore, and Imtiyaz Ahmad in Pattan. One of them had rented out space to a cellular company by allowing the installation of a tower in his compound. The way these attacks are being orchestrated is what is bothersome for me. During the early 1990s, the Kashmir Valley was gripped by an unusual panic; the invisible dae’n (witch). It was believed that a mysteriously undetectable “witch”, called dae’n (dayan) in the native tongue, would attack individuals inside their homes during the evening. Therefore, the entire localities would formulate their counter-strategies and collectively assemble either outside their houses or near the local mosques with firelights (mashals) to scare the invisible dae’n amidst pro-freedom and anti-India slogans. No one seems to know the complete truth about the ‘witch era’ until today. Now in 2015, during the age of internet revolution and information technology, Kashmir is yet again witnessing an unusual and unexpected trouble, in the form of the cellular tower attacks in North Kashmir and the summer capital, Srinagar. My concern is, why just cellular towers? What is the purpose of attacking just communication lines? Is there is a greater plan at play? On June 1^st, a grenade was lobbed on a cellular tower in old Srinagar, injuring one civilian. Prior to this, mysterious attacks of such nature were carried out in North Kashmir’s Pattan, Sopore and Handwara towns. The apparent aim seems to be to create panic and present Kashmir as an unsafe place for trade, travel, and tourism and perhaps also to push the beautiful valley back to the dark ages by halting its economic progress, which to a large extent is dependent upon mobile phone connectivity and internet facilities. While parts of the valley have come back on the grid and connectivity has been restored to some parts of North Kashmir, the question remains: who is the real culprit? And who could be the ultimate beneficiary? This new ‘tower terrorism’ began when threatening posters began circulating in North Kashmir purportedly by a group called Lashkar-e-Islam, dictating cellular companies to immediately wind up their businesses and shut down operations in Kashmir. This, in itself, seems utterly peculiar. What could the group want by cordoning Kashmiris off and severing connections with the rest of the world? No one seems to have a clue about what this new organisation is up to. Is this a real organisation or an ‘unseen’ phenomenon, like the ‘dae’n’ during the 1990s? After these attacks on the cellular towers, the chief minister of Indian-controlled Jammu and Kashmir, Mufti Mohammad Sayeed, called a high-level meeting to “review the overall security situation”. Taking strong note of the disruption of cellular networks in various parts of the valley, Sayeed observed that, “People cannot be pushed into the Stone Age as modern-day functioning in the government, banking, tourism, education, and other vital sectors, in particular, old-age pension and e-transfer of insurance claims and compensation to flood-affected victims are totally dependent on internet connectivity”. He also said that cellular networks have become the lifeline in this area as these services are availed by all sections of the society, according to a government press release. But Jammu and Kashmir’s former chief minister, Omar Abdullah, launched a scathing attack on Mufti Saeed on Twitter,

“Has Mufti Syed said anything to reassure the people connected with the cell phone industry in Kashmir? A single statement? Probably won’t!!”

“Mufti Syed 02-05 “I gave the people of J&K cell-phones” Mufti Syed 15-?? “I oversaw the demise and removal of cell-phone services in Kashmir”

“The situation in North Kashmir is a temporary phase.”

“Not stop us (the government) from bringing peace in the valley”.

“… In the last 25 years of insurgency and counter insurgency operations, many civilians have been targeted. In almost all the attacks on civilians, the police have failed to conduct credible investigations to hold the killers accountable. In the context of Indian policy of proliferation of terrorist groups in Kashmir for countering and defaming the Jammu and Kashmir movement, it has been always difficult to conclusively establish the culpable persons. In this context it becomes incumbent on United Jihad Council to also on their side establish who are the people behind this particular attack on non-combatants,” read the JKCCS statement.

“The vested interest in the Indian security establishment is in no mood to annul the draconian Armed Forces Special Powers Act (AFSPA) in Jammu and Kashmir”.

On my visit to Istanbul, one of the main attractions of the city for me was the exquisite food. Their cuisines looked simple yet tasted amazing. It was mostly mild yet full of flavours. One could eat here for days and not miss the oily biryani and karhai back home. Therefore, here is a list of 13 food items which you must try if you ever visit Istanbul: 1. Doner Kebab [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Urooj Hussain[/caption] This one is a no-brainer; there is not a thing which says Istanbul like freshly grilled Doner Kebabs. It’s by far the first thing that anyone tries as soon as they get to Istanbul and rightly so. The beef, along with the usual option of chicken as well, is grilled to perfection. It is commonly labelled as a shawarma-type dish by tourists,  and is usually served with both bread and rice – which they call the pilaf. While Doner Kebabs are available just about everywhere in the city, the local street side or small cafes in Old City are known as the ideal places to eat. I wouldn’t recommend anyone to try this at a fancy restaurant in Taksim, as its better to dine where the locals eat. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="450"] Photo: Stock Photo[/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Urooj Hussain[/caption] 2. Pide (pronounced pee-day) [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Stock Photo[/caption] Pide can be precisely described as the Turkish version of a thin-crust pizza. It consists of a flat, very thin bread topped with a layer of cheese and meat (or vegetables). It’s usually complemented with fresh greens, which can be adjusted to taste, and is commonly seen as easy snacking. The servings normally look huge but that is because the bread is very flat and thin; thus one person can easily eat one serving. 3. Simit [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Urooj Hussain[/caption] Simit is a must try! Its dry, circular-shaped bread is usually crusted with sesame seeds. You get these from street vendors in just about every street corner of Istanbul. They can be eaten on their own, even though the vendors also serve them with ad-ons such as cream cheese or even Nutella. Certain people may find this bread a bit too dry for their liking, but I personally thought it was great and perfect for snacking while exploring the streets of Istanbul. 4. Turkish Tea [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="450"] Photo: Urooj Hussain[/caption] This is a no-miss. It is written as Cai, but pronounced as Chai; similar to how we say it back home. The locals consume this as often as water intake, thus three to four cups in one sitting is a common practice. People in Istanbul are generous with tea, they usually serve it complimentary after every meal. It is served with sugar cubes and is similar to Kahva, but with a deeper aroma and taste to it. 5. Baklava [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Urooj Hussain[/caption] The Istanbul experience is not complete without the taste of freshly made, melt-in-your-mouth Baklava. This sweet dish is famous all over the Middle East. Nevertheless, consuming freshly made baklava from the sweet store is a whole new experience on its own.They come in countless varieties and flavours – chocolate, coconut, almond and pista. The combinations are endless and the best place to have this dessert is at Hafiz Mustafa in Old City. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Urooj Hussain[/caption] 6. Mezze [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Urooj Hussain[/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Urooj Hussain[/caption] Mezze is a set of assorted snacks which are served cold and as an appetiser before meals. They have a range of delicious things such as hummus, garlic yogurt, freshly cut vegetables, eggplant salad, olives, falafel and bulgur rice. These are just a few of the items; the combinations differ from one place to another but all of them have one thing in common – they taste absolutely amazing. 7.  Misir (steamed corn) [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Urooj Hussain[/caption] Reminiscent to the makai wallas that are commonly seen back home, Misir is also sold via street vendors in every corner of Istanbul. Ranging from TL3 (the more tourist-intensive areas) to as low as TL1.5 in the quieter places. This healthy snack is another great option for something to eat on the go. It tends to be a lot milder then the makai served to us back home, thus make sure you ask the vendor to apply the lemon and salt as per your preference. 8. Pastries In other words, desserts. Check out the picture below, it was taken at a bakery of local goodies. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Urooj Hussain[/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Urooj Hussain[/caption] This was a strawberry tart that I tried with a friend at one of the local cafes. It was generously topped with cream-filled strawberries and a scrumptious chocolate base. It was so delicious that I couldn’t get enough of. I remember us being grouchy due to an extremely tiring day, but after trying this delightful dessert, we were far more radiant. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Urooj Hussain[/caption] 9. Kumpir (stuffed-baked potato) [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Stock Photo[/caption] Kumpir has to be one of my most favourite foods in Istanbul. It is commonly available in the city and consists of a huge baked potato. First the potato is hollowed out and then mixed with seven to 10  toppings of your choice,  then scooped back into the ‘jacket’ of the potato.The toppings available consist of simple butter, mayo, olives, couscous, sausages, corn, cheese, assorted vegetables, tuna and the likes. The prices vary with the number of toppings that you choose. My advice is to select a maximum four toppings so that you can relish the taste of the potato as well, without confusing the savour with too many flavours. 10. Kunefa [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Urooj Hussain[/caption] *Sigh* (that is the gesture one makes while reminiscing about this dish) If you think the strawberry pastry captivated your attention, then this famous Middle Eastern sweet dish is certainly at par. It’s essentially a pastry of vermicelli stuffed with cream cheese or simple custard. However, the recipe differs from place to place. It may remind you of sheer korma back home, even though it’s in solid form. However, I feel Kunefa beats it by a far margin. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Urooj Hussain[/caption] 11. Turkish Coffee [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="450"] Photo: Urooj Hussain[/caption] This is another trademark item which is not to be missed. But to be honest, I realised that this deserves to be mentioned after thoroughly thinking it through a few times. Adapting to the taste of Turkish coffee is challenging for those who hold the habit of drinking sweet milky coffee. It is intensely strong, rich and full of flavour. Even four cubes of sugar would not alter its taste. While I am not a die-hard fan of coffee, there was something about this drink which appealed to me. 12. Manti (ravioli) [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Stock Photo[/caption] The Turkish version of this Italian dish is quite different from most foods. The dumplings are made of pasta stuffed with beef or mutton mince and thoroughly covered with garlic yogurt sauce. It’s similar to the combination of white Alfredo and Bolognese, except it may be healthier owning to the fact that the sauce is yogurt-based instead of cream. 13. Kokorech [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Stock Photo[/caption] I had to include this in the list! Kokorech is basically goat intestines. Seems strange to us but it is a delicacy there. This is also found very easily in almost any cafe and is served in bread, giving an intense meaty taste. Give it a try if you are tolerant enough, as I could only manage one bite myself. This dish is undoubtedly for serious food-experimenting enthusiasts! Please note that these dishes are what complimented my taste buds; if there is something that you have tried and feel it deserves to be mentioned, then do let me know in the comment section. Happy eating! This blog originally appeared here. 

I spent my childhood playing in daisy-filled meadows, walking the pakdandis and exploring the narrow roads of Nathiagali. I have drifted along these pakdandis for miles, getting lost in the green hills only to be brought home by the villagers who witnessed us growing up. My family and I are blessed that we can flee to the Galiyats, escaping the hustle bustle and frenzy that has seeped into almost every other city in Pakistan. The hill station has been my parents and grandparents retreat of choice since the 60s. This year brings the fourth generation of our family to the Galiyats at a tender age of just nine months. Over these decades, Nathiagali has become our home and the people residing in the villages surrounding it have become our extended family. The residents of Nathiagali have taken over the preservation of its unique charm personally by planting over 150,000 trees. They also started a local ambulance service and have uplifted the educational standards of schools. And hence, predictably, any destruction of my home evokes strong emotions in me. What has set Nathiagali apart from other hill stations is how it remains in its natural state — untouched. The occasional VIP movement shakes the peace — whether they are passing through to go to the governor’s or chief minister’s house — but they all pass, leaving behind the quaint town with its residents and its narrow roads. The hill station has been conserved, because unlike Murree and other once-beautiful hill stations, its care has been left to the people who live within it. That is until the Pakistan Tehreek-e-Insaaf’s (PTI) government came into power in Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa (K-P) with its lofty plans to expand roads and tourism. Let me clarify — I am a proponent of increasing tourism, as are the shopkeepers and locals I have consulted. The K-P government’s plan to open guesthouses to the public is promising; this will provide tourism spaces that once belonged solely to government and army personnel. I am hopeful the plan will be mindful about the importance of proper maintenance of facilities and historic spaces. However, their intention to make these free or cheap for the public is misguided. Heritage sites such as the ones they have now opened up to the public are preserved by charging top-dollar worldwide. Furthermore, the previously government-run chalets called the “Sarhad Tourism Chalets” are run-down and dilapidated, due to a lack of adequate maintenance. None of the locals are willing to stand by and watch the destruction and defacing of their hometown; one of the rare few places free from the clutches of our short-sighted and ill-planned leadership. Shopkeepers say that they find no logical reason to expand the roads of the bazaar (market) — the project the government has embarked on — as tourism is peaking, even before such expansion. They complain construction was at a standstill the entire year and only resumed in the last six weeks of summer, during peak tourist season, with no management present which is clearly hampering this tourist season currently underway. Consequently, the bazaar is ridden with slush, landslides and overflowing water, and age-old trees are being cut at random. Many in the marketplace are disillusioned; they say the new government has destroyed Nathiagali beyond repair, that it can never be restored to its original state. Shopkeepers complain their business has seen a decline since the beginning of the project and worry things won’t pick up if the area’s sanctity isn’t safeguarded. Ultimately, the government fails to recognise the problem is of management, that wider roads will not alleviate traffic problems as there are no policemen or government officials supervising the streets or the construction work. It is heart breaking to witness the PTI government ruin the character of a beautiful hill station — a hefty price to pay for wide roads. After all, small hill stations and towns in Europe and America have flourishing tourism industries with small, winding roads, so why can’t we? Below is the story in pictures: [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="597"] This road leading to the Nathiagali Bazaar was constructed during the British Raj. It has been demolished in order to construct a dual carriageway. Shopkeepers say the government has “ruined” the bazaar.[/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="598"] A view of the 40-feet deep parking lot that was set to be constructed. Locals say the government has now abandoned the idea of a lot, and is simply extending the road, obstructing current access to the shops.[/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="598"] Age-old trees destroyed. Could they not have been avoided?[/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="598"] Here is a picture of a newly carpeted road. Why have these trees been cut when they are clearly not obstructing the road path? The management displays a sheer lack of care for the few regions of Pakistan that remain in their natural, beautiful state.[/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="505"] A 200 year old tree cut and destroyed.[/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="596"] Landslides, destruction and chaos on the roads leading into Nathiagali.[/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] The township I strive to preserve.[/caption] In light of the above, I question Malik Amin Aslam, the architect of the PTI’s green growth initiative, about the efficacy of his Billion Tree Tsunami project (quoted by Rina Khan in Dawn). Is PTI implementing a policy whereby every 100 trees chopped down in Nathiagali will be planted elsewhere? I fail to understand this “creeping green revolution” after seeing 200-year-old trees, which can easily be preserved, being destroyed on a daily basis on the pretext of “development”. The way the expansion project has been at a hiatus for the last 10 months is testament to an inefficient government’s effort and to what lies in store in the future for my home. Some argue the PTI is taking positive action in K-P, but the reality in Nathiagali says otherwise. I urge everyone to press Imran Khan to bring an end to deforestation in Nathiagali. What does it say about our leadership, Mr Khan, knowing that we cannot even preserve a township of approximately 50,000 people? All photos: Aaminah Qadir

Most of us, if not all, go to the UAE on a visit visa in order to search for a job. And the majority of us have no guarantee of finding a satisfying job. It takes time to research and locate your ideal job post in UAE. If you are unemployed, make this task your full-time job; if you’re employed, set aside some time every day after work for your job search, after all, we’re all looking for the next best opportunity. Speaking from experience, here are a few suggestions and tips I would like to share with you for a successful job hunting experience that helped me land a job in Dubai. 1. Know your market UAE has a highly competitive job market, where the number of expatriates reached up to 83.5%. Due to the Emiratisation policy, first preference is given to local candidates followed by western and Arab citizens and lastly, western-educated candidates. Asians are high in supply and low in demand, thus receiving comparatively lesser salaries. Therefore, it is strongly suggested to develop a competitive advantage, create strong linkages, and take calculated risks and informed decisions on the basis of market realities in order to qualify for any well-paid job in the UAE. It is strongly recommended that one should secure employment before travelling to the UAE. Speculative visits are occasionally successful and rarely lead to an offer of employment unless you are extremely lucky or have good networks and contacts in preferred sector. Therefore, it is highly suggested you start your job search from your own country, that too, at least one to three months before your planned visit. Most of the jobs, especially white collar jobs in the UAE, advertise at least 20 to 30 days before starting their screening, shortlisting, and interviewing process. This way, you will be able to gauge your market potential. If you receive any kind of positive response, then it is suggested you move ahead otherwise do not take any risks. If you start applying after entering the UAE, you will be wasting at least 20 to 30 days out of your 30 to 90-days visit visa. Narrow down your search with reference to sectors and potential positions that you want to apply for, which means look for those opportunities that match your core competencies, career goals, personal priorities, and experience to secure your targeted job within limited time and resources. Research job opportunities and potential employers and create forward linkages besides continuously updating your knowledge, skills, and expertise. According to my observation and findings, it is highly likely to find a job in the education, healthcare, tourism, hospitality, logistics, export, construction, and retail sectors as these sectors are booming in the UAE. While production, manufacturing and automotive sectors are showing sluggish sentiments, petroleum and petrochemicals, fishing, aluminium, cement, fertilisers, banking, commercial ship repair, construction materials, boat building, handicrafts and textiles are the major industries in the UAE. Therefore, pertinent professionals are suggested to take informed decisions accordingly. 2. How to apply Prepare multiple impressive résumés and cover letters. Chronological, functional and combined résumé formats are acceptable in the UAE. It is suggested that you state your name, contact number, email and postal address (in case of being in the UAE) along with your passport-sized picture at the top of your résumé. Your personal information, for instance, nationality, date of birth, passport number, visa status and if you own a driving license, should be included at the bottom of your résumé. While applying from your home country, mention your UAE-based friend’s or relative’s contact numbers with their due consent so that the employer can contact you via this number. When you reach the UAE, buy your own SIM and update your contact information accordingly. Make sure the recruitment agency and HR personnel you’re dealing with are legitimate and not demanding any kind of fee for giving you a job. Many of these hiring companies and HR personnel are a scam, promising to submit your résumé to prospective employers or give you a job, thus fleecing the job hunter. They are well aware that visitors will leave the country within a short span of time and will not be able to claim a refund or report any malpractice. Therefore, please be cautious. Before applying for a visa, confirm whether it is extendable or not. Since January 1, 2015, the UAE government has scraped the visit visa extension policy. One can get a non-expendable visit visa for one month to three months at the cost of AED800 and AED2,100 respectively. 3. What you need to apply Initially, it is very difficult to land a job in the UAE. Therefore, it is suggested not to expect high salaries. If one receives an offer which matches up to their current salary along with accommodation and transportation, then he/she should accept the offer as it is easy to jump from one opportunity to another after getting experience in the local market, especially for well-qualified and competent individuals who have a better chance. There is no ban for skipping from job to job before the end of a contract according to the Free Zones or government organisations in the UAE. If you are visiting the UAE on a visit visa, it is suggested one keeps around AED2,000 with themselves to show the airport authorities that you have enough money to finance your visit. A lot of people have said they were not allowed to depart from Pakistan if they had less than the mentioned amount, though the authorities do not ask for financial proof all the time. At least I myself have not been asked by authorities at the airport, the only question I was asked by the immigration officers was why I was visiting the country. My suggestion is to dress smartly, keep the specified amount with yourself and definitely not mention the fact you are going to look for a job. Instead, tell them you are visiting for recreational purposes. According to the latest survey by Jobs Portal and Bayt.com, 41.5% of responding companies in the Middle East and North African region always research new hires online before hiring. In some of the online job application forms, a considerable number of organisations seek web addresses of your social networks and LinkedIn profile to assess your candidacy with reference to the given job and their corporate culture. Therefore, increase your online visibility, manage your online reputation and try to build your unique online brand and put forth a positive image. Read up on the living and working conditions in Dubai and make arrangements accordingly. On an average, it costs approximately AED500 to 800 for housing, AED300 to 600 for food and AED400 to 700 for transportation and communication for one month. Due to such steep costs, it’s important to learn about benefits offered by employers, whether accommodation, transportation, and return tickets are included in the package. These things can eat up a large part of your salary if you have to pay for them yourself. In today’s job market, one’s references and network determines your net worth, as you can tap into the ‘hidden’ job market by maximising your existing network along with developing a list of contacts through friends, family, former co-workers and your social institutions or alumni. 4. Social media should be your new best friend Create a profile on LinkedIn and update its status regularly. Create ‘Job Wanted’ ads on job sites like www.dubizzle.com and share the same on LinkedIn and other social media forums and professional circles. Reach out to the people in your network and speak to them, ask them for advice, helpful information regarding jobs, and job leads. Prepare your own pitch by describing who you are, your background, and what you are specifically looking for from the person you are contacting. The most effective and recommended tools for job hunting in the UAE are network and references, followed by online job sites like www.byte.com, www.dubizzle.com, www.gulftalent.com, www.naukrigulf.com, www.nadia-me.com, www.jnjobs4u.com, www.catererglobal.com,Gulf News Classifieds, Khaleej Times, and LinkedIn besides official websites of potential companies in the UAE. One can also apply by visiting offices of all the potential employers and companies. Jebel Ali Free Zone, Sharjah industrial area, Dubai Financial Centre, Dubai Textile City, Education City etc. are suggested for dropping your resume by hand for low cadre positions only. The most time-tested and effective technique for job hunting in the UAE is to apply for matching positions through online job portals, Google search and company websites and then follow-up through phone calls. One call after submitting the application is enough in order to let the hiring manager know that you have applied for the given position and to tell him/her that you are perfectly competent and eligible for the position. If they don’t give you a chance to discuss this at that point in time, then wait for the closing date of the job advertisement and follow-up just after the closing date and request them to give you the chance on the basis of your competence. Through this, you will maximise your opportunity to appear for an interview. Therefore, the most important point is to be prepared and stay updated on your core competencies and skills in order to pass the test or interview. Always keep a record of all the jobs you have applied for, including Terms of References of vacancies where you have the most chances of being shortlisted for your easy reference, tracking progress, and further follow-up. Keep up to date with the news in your chosen industry, keep reviewing and fine-tuning your resume and keep on trying without losing heart. Eventually, opportunities come to those who dare to take risks and constantly prepare to avail them when they arise. Hope these tips help and good luck to all the job hunters out there!

The world has shrunk into a global village and everything seems to be available at the request of a single click. The promotion of any sort of business, even in far flung developing countries, has become easier than before. It seems that social media is facilitating the marketers to a great extent. However, this ease has triggered a complex competition of creative ideas, a race of initiatives, and the tactical management of these social media mechanics in order to attract fruitful prospects. In such a scenario, it was really surprising for me when I couldn’t find the name of our country and its beautiful and scenic tourism spots places on international tourism websites and blogs. While working on a project, I randomly browsed through 50 sites and found almost every tourist destination in their list, except for Pakistan. Then to overcome my astonishment, I started exploring the essential traits of tourist destinations, something which I figured our country is lacking. Majority of tourists want to go to places where they can enjoy nature at its best and relax. Fortunately, Pakistan has marvellous destinations like Gilgit-Baltistan (G-B) which is blessed with breath-taking landscapes to satisfy these eco-tourists. It is a spectacular destination with the world’s three tallest mountain ranges, lush green plateaus, colourful valleys, dazzling waterfalls, and much more which cannot be described in words. Secondly, a major chunk of tourists are fond of adventurous activities. To accommodate them, G-B offers a wide range of activities such as trekking, paragliding, skiing, fishing, and boating etc. Moreover, diversified cultural and colourful festivals along with the tradition of hospitality and the general warmth the people of G-B exude, makes this place all the more an attraction for tourists. Despite so many striking features, why is this region still far behind other countries, considering its natural scenic beauty? The problem lies in the poor projection and promotion of this destination. The issue of poor infrastructure, accessibility issues, and security conditions in the past have also deteriorated G-B’s image further. However, in reality, a lot of work is in progress to resolve these issues. We just need to work hard to change the poor perception the world has about G-B. I’ve devised a two-way approach to handle this situation tactfully. Highlight the progress being undertaken in G-B The operation taking place in the northern areas, Zarb-e Azb, has reduced security issues to a great extent. Hence, disseminating the success of this mission to the general public is critical at this point. Pakistan International Airlines (PIA) has been providing two regular flights to G-B since a while now, which addresses the misconception regarding the accessibility of this region. Moreover, the Lowari Tunnel is under progress, which will facilitate travellers to a great extent. Numerous hydropower plants have been established to provide electricity to industrial and civilian areas. And the investment of $46 billion for the China-Pakistan Economic Corridor (CPEC) will definitely have a positive impact on this region as well. The government needs to identify and work on lucrative investment opportunities It is a fact that tourists are always attracted to progress, which is why developed countries have a booming tourism industry. G-B is a region blessed with so many productive resources; however, there is a dire need to work on improving the existing businesses in order to attract foreign investment in this region. Tourism in Pakistan will definitely get the required boost once it gets the right sort of investment. We can take the example of the gemstone industry; it could be a rewarding field if efforts are made in the right direction. This resource can bring in huge revenues, only if the latest technology is deployed for mining and extracting. The export of organic fruits is another profitable business, but yet again, it is suffering miserably due to inadequate substandard packaging and preservation techniques. The unavailability of proper cold storages is further creating obstacles. The aforementioned areas, if developed correctly, can play a vital role in the prosperity of the region and our country. Highlighting such investment opportunities will help change the negative perception the world has about G-B. Promoting Pakistan through social media tools The concerned authorities need to develop a thorough planned campaign in order to project the progress of our country. The campaign should be built by combining various social media tools to generate awareness about beautiful destinations within Pakistan. Simultaneously, it is crucial to create awareness about developments underway, concurrently highlighting available investment opportunities. The following steps would prove to be positive steps: 1. Contacting international bloggers, famous travelling websites would be highly beneficial. 2. Collaborating with different tourism organisations, such as World Tourism Organisation (UNWTO) is highly recommended to formulate plans for mutual benefits. 3. Proper management and utilisation of prospective tourist database 4. Designing and publicising tours filled with events and festivals on social media forums would attract the attention of foreigners. Although there are several ways to promote tourism in the short run, however, to achieve sustainability in the long run, there is a dire need to change the perception of tourists. We need to work on the overall progress of this region. Secondly, the projection of this progress on social media is fundamental in order to achieve this target. We all need to play a part in this drive for reviving tourism. At the moment, there are a few websites and Facebook pages working towards the revival of tourism in this region. Being Pakistanis, we need to support such activities in order to build a progressive image of Pakistan and to promote tourism and other industries. So let’s play our part and provide G-B and Pakistan with the appreciation it deserves.

When you hear that someone in their mid-20s has travelled to Greece, one immediately imagines them lying on a sandy beach surrounded by the pristine waters of Santorini or thinks of them dancing to their heart’s content to the tunes of the world’s best DJs on the party island of Mykonos. But those are not the destinations my friends and I chose for our four-day get-away to Greece. Our city of choice was Athens, the birthplace of democracy.  Named after the Greek God Athena, and one of the oldest cities of the world, Athens was not just a treat historically and culturally, but it turned out to be a great get away from the drudgery of our monotonous work life. The first site we explored was the most obvious one, the Parthenon at the Acropolis. The term ‘Acropolis’ actually refers to the fortified part of a city built on a hill and the Parthenon is the temple built by the Greeks in ancient times in honour of the Goddess Athena. Since the city gets quite hot during the day in September, sunset is the best time to visit the temple. The temple was a ‘short 20-minute walk’ according to the hotel concierge but taking into account the incline and the small, tempting local stores selling Greek souvenirs, it turned out to be a 40-minute walk. However, the view from the top made the journey worth it. The entire city was sprawled below us while the sun set on the Aegean Sea in the distance and we witnessed the dry city come to life within minutes. Lights flickered on throughout the city, signalling to the tourists that the city had woken up from its afternoon siesta. Yes, the Greeks are big on their naps. Whoever said that the Greek are an unfriendly lot got it all wrong. From our overfriendly hotel concierge who made an extra effort to crack jokes, to the shopkeepers who wrote down names of local restaurants serving authentic Greek food for us, everyone we encountered was friendly and helpful. A tip for tourists: Do not hesitate in bargaining at souvenir shops or moving on to the next store to get a quote because the city is full of these stores. In my haste and enthusiasm to get a hat for our cruise the next day, I ended up buying it from the first store and overpaying by around five euros. For those who are not aware, Greece is still on the euro and the food there is quite cheap along with shopping being less expensive, as compared to most European countries. You can even order tap water instead of bottled water in order to save money at restaurants or if you insist on drinking bottled water, you’re better off buying it from a supermarket. The next day we had a one-day cruise on the agenda for which we had our hotel pickup at 7am, which meant hogging on hotel breakfast 10 minutes before it officially opened. The cruise offered a visit to the three Greek islands of Hydra (pronounced as ‘eedra’ and referred to it as a rich man’s island), Poros, and Aegina (the cultural island). Although the price for the cruise was a bit steep, at 99 euros, but for those visiting Athens and looking to visit a Santorini-like island (Hydra), this cruise is a good option. It had food and transportation to and from the hotel included and a traditional Greek dance show for entertainment aboard the cruise. For the tech savvy lot, I recommend booking online since it’s cheaper, and don’t forget to ask for student discount shamelessly everywhere you go. The three and a half-hour journey to the island of Hydra paid off. The water was actually three different shades of blue and the white houses with the blue roofs and windows had a Santorini feel to them. The island truly was a rich man’s island for good reason. The water was also twice as expensive. The time at the island, albeit short, was enjoyable. The island of Poros was a slight disappointment; it was smaller and paled in comparison to Hydra and since it was time for the siesta, everything was closed. We opted to go swimming at the island of Aegina (there was an extra charge of 20 euros since they took us to a ‘very special swimming place’) instead of the bus tour around the island. The ‘very special place’ also had a deer and a peacock causally roaming around on the beach which I found quite amusing. All in all, the cruise tour was highly recommended for those not visiting any other city in Greece. The third day, we opted for a half-day tour of the temple of Poseidon, Greek god of the seas. The temple is located at Cape Sounion and is a two-hour bus ride from Athens. The temple ruins are on a hill and surrounded by crystal clear water but the tour allowed us to be there for barely an hour. In retrospect, I would have omitted this from our itinerary since it was not worth the money that we paid (44 euros). For those interested in the night life of the city, Athens is a city that comes alive at night. There are various places one can go to, depending on the budget. The south of the city, bordering the seaside, was more expensive and posh. We chose the liveliest area, Gazi, where there was a multitude of students. Surprisingly, Athens’s nightlife is not the typical nightlife you would expect; there is a lot more focus on conversation than on dancing. I would highly advise all tourists to take the taxi at night since some areas can get shady after dusk. The metro which runs till 2am on weekends is a good option and quite easy to navigate around as well. The city is a treat for all seafood lovers. I literally ate the best grilled seafood (especially octopus) and the vegetables even tasted great. Zucchini is a very popular vegetable and courgette balls are a must-have as starters along with Tzatziki (a classic dip made out of yogurt, cucumber and garlic). Souvlaki (grilled meat on a skewer) is a hot favourite of the Greeks and is considered their most famous fast food. Don’t expect to find a Mcdonald’s or Pizza Hut there at every corner and be prepared to try traditional Greek food because no experience is complete without trying the local cuisine. For all those looking for a non-beachy vacation, I would highly recommend Athens. It may not be love at first sight but you slowly begin to appreciate the city for its authenticity and its resilience. All photos: Meshal Imtiaz

My love for Pakistan is unfathomable! From the lush green valley of Chitral to the hustling bustling streets of Lahore, my love for my country has, in fact, grown over time. Pakistan is my home – mom’s food, sister’s amazing chai, random hangouts with school friends, street food, the streets of Lahore; the list of things I absolutely adore about my home is unending. When I came to the US, initially I thought this journey was more like a survival challenge for my existence. I was nostalgic and missed everything about home. But now I feel those things are not missed so much anymore. While roaming the streets of the US, I realised how I didn’t miss my very own Pakistan anymore. The first thing that struck me hard in Texas were the smiles and kindness with which everyone greeted me. Not just my friends or classmates but everyone everywhere was kind enough to wish me luck for the day ahead. At first, I thought they all knew that it was my first day here because I looked lost and homesick, but in a few weeks, this way of life became my lifestyle as well. As much as the gesture touched me, it also made me think about why we don’t show the same warmth and kindness towards each other back home? Imagine looking at a random stranger and smiling at them in Lahore, that too being a female. It’ll definitely send out the wrong message. While we’re all indulged in our work, we somehow forget to share our happiness with those around us. Every smile has a domino effect and I experienced that in Austin. I smiled at this homeless man, sitting on the corner of the road with his paintings, a few broken cans and a box full of pennies. He stopped me, asked me about my hometown and to my surprise gifted me one of his paintings. Sometimes, all someone else is looking for is a gesture full of humility and appreciation. The Americans not only appreciate their people but they adore their history as well. The upkeep of their monuments has been phenomenal and thus attracts tourists from all over. Let it be the streets of New Orleans or the buildings of Washington DC, the remnants of slavery in Louisiana or Muhammad Ali’s memorial in Lexington, they’ve kept everything alive and open for discovery for people like us. So, when I see this, it breaks my heart to think about the muddy streets behind Badshahi Mosque, the broken walls of Sheesh Mahal and the flood-stricken homes of Chitral. We, as Pakistanis, in addition to our government, need to take responsibility of keeping our history and heritage alive. Stop littering around the beautiful streets of Lahore, stop harassing female tourists and refrain from damaging walls of the great monuments of the Mughal Empire. We are all responsible for ruining our rich history, a history and heritage capable of stirring hearts everywhere. Apart from our history, we need to work on our future as well. I’ve realised that we’ve become too comfortable with playing blame games. We are taken care of by our parents, financially and physically, till the age of 25 or sometimes even 30. No worries, no debts and yet we complain and whine about our miserable condition. While the kids here start working as waiters, drivers or whatever job they can land, exploring every possible avenue to earn and be independent, we, on the other hand, use and abuse the privilege of ‘independence’. We are least bothered about the fact that our parents are struggling with finances, and all we want is the liberty to go out and spend their hard-earned money mindlessly. I met a photographer in New York who stopped to inquire about my camera. During our brief conversation, he surprised me twice. When I commented on how I saw so many ‘non-Americans’ (by which I meant people who are not white) on the streets of New York, he said,

“You don’t have to be a white person, to be an American!”

Hyderabad is one of those cities where the magnetic pull of nostalgia can be felt to a maximum, owing to the ever glorious landmarks of a bygone era. It is one of those cities where the past silently trudges along with a noisy and loud present. Apart from its new face where it is adorned with high rise buildings, bustling, busy markets thronged with heavy locomotive traffic; there is another face where the past lurks behind colonial buildings, hiding under electrical wires and large hoardings. The same old face can be seen written over the aged, gnarled and wrinkled face of an elderly person who has witnessed it, in all of its glory, and sailed through some of its sadness. The story of this city dates back to the time of the Arab invasion when it was a mere fishing village. It came into prominence when Kalhora ruler Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro established it as a capital of his empire in 1768. Afterwards, it was passed on to Talpur and into British hands until the creation of Pakistan in 1947. Despite having a very bumpy history, this city has shared innumerous happy and prosperous times as well, like when its streets used to be washed with rose water. It once hosted a large number of gardens that overflowed with green parks where children played and their laughter echoed, and libraries that were brimming with books, all that were testimony of its grandeur and peaceful public life. However, those times seem to have been shrouded in dust and the missing vitality of it seems almost impossible to imagine. The opulence of this city was partly owing to rich and well-to-do Hindu businessmen and merchants who traded in indigenous goods and exported them all across Europe, Middle East and South East Asia and were generally called ‘Sindhi workies’. Then there were Amils, literate Hindus who first served in Kalhora and Talpur courts and then joined the British civil administration. They built many large buildings ranging from public to private, domestic, religious and welfare types. At the time of partition, most of the Hindu population of Hyderabad left for India, vacating the buildings that were then occupied by refugee families from India. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] A plaque exhibiting the name of owner .[/caption] The British government and civil society also built many distinctive buildings that are scattered across the older sections of the city. The main clusters are located at Tilak Incline, Heerabad, Pakka Qila , market area and Serey Ghat sections. A vast majority of these edifices have now been razed to the ground due to commercialisation and, now, only a handful of them are still standing. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] A pre-partion building in Heerabad.[/caption] The city was once famous for its wind catchers locally called ‘mangh’; a simple architectural device that captures wind and helps keep the interior of a building cool. There was a time when you could find a wind catcher on every rooftop in Hyderabad. Now, almost all of them are gone, changing the cityscape for good. My interest in this city’s past began in my student life. I used to take walks from my old campus, past Hyder Chowk, Gari Khata and into an old market that is a thoroughfare for women of Hyderabad, also known as Resham Gali. Despite how crowded this particular path is, you will still be struck by the beautiful buildings prevalent here that were built in the pre-partitioned era. Your path will be bordered by books stalls, stationary shops, bakeries and small dhabas along the road. If you look up, you’ll be mesmerised by the magnificent stone work galleries, trellises, floral motifs inscribed on facades, windows, balconies and jharokas. While walking, I almost always had my eyes transfixed upwards until some vehicle or the other zoomed past me with a blaring horn to bring me back from my trance. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] An imposing building in Tower market area.[/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] An old building in Tower market area.[/caption] We had a point bus that used to take us back to the campus at 7pm. By now, our shopping spree would end and lights would be lit up everywhere, illuminating the entire area. At this time, those mansions looked grand, elegant, gothic and almost surreal; it looked like if you touched them, they would suddenly evaporate into the evening mist. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Navalrai Hiranad Tower, bult in 1940.[/caption] Oblivious to the heavy traffic and commercial activity, the silhouettes of these once magnificent buildings have an aura of sadness that swells and seemed to befall the entire area. Occasionally, a window would open up and a woman or a child would peer outside and then close it, leaving the building in its solitude again. Perched above the facades, the pigeons would flap their wings and fly away. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] The fronal facade of Watumal Dadlani building.[/caption] The rapid destruction of such old buildings is a threat to the city’s vibrant cultural and magnificent heritage. It is time that this risk is soon identified and taken charge of by the concerned authorities. History, once lost, cannot be restored.

By my fifth day in Morocco, I had already gotten used to the Moroccan shopkeepers’ ‘Nationality Guessing Game’. Every once in a while, a shopkeeper sitting outside his shop would gratuitously try and guess my nationality out aloud. ‘India!’ would be the first guess of most shopkeepers as I strolled through the streets of the medina. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] View from fortress.[/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Street View.[/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Main Square.[/caption] Continuing my stride, I’d shake my head sideways at each incorrect guess.

“Spain!” “Italy!” “Brazil!!!”

 “MAD250,”

Pakistan’s current political situation discussed in dining rooms, gatherings and media is beginning to resemble an advanced version of Chinese Whispers; a popular game played worldwide in which entertainment is derived from the errors in retelling a message through a series of shared whispers.  Regardless of the authenticity of the source, people are increasingly discussing the deteriorating law and order situation, Talibanisation, bombings and violent street clashes in Pakistan, all of which paint a disturbing picture of what is actually happening in the country. Despite the dismal pictures being painted and reinforced by my surroundings, I wanted to go explore my country and see it for myself. Thus, along with a group of nine people, I embarked on a New Year’s Trip to Azad Kashmir. Almost everyone I encountered prior to leaving Karachi questioned my decision and asked about the safety of the trip. Given that December 16, 2014 was marked as a Black Day for Pakistan, due to the unfortunate Peshawar Attack, perhaps it was my immunity to violence or a positive mind-set which emanated from my successful trip to Shogran (Kaghan Valley Tour) that I did not waver. We flew from Karachi to Islamabad and then onward to Muzaffarabad by road to begin our adventure. The trip was planned by our tour guide, The Trekkerz, so that we spent every night at a new location and woke up to a different view. What remained consistent was the bonfire we sat around every night due to the near zero degree (plus or minus a few) temperature. The destinations included Keran, Sharda, Kail or Kel, Upper Neelum and Kutton. The rest houses offered stunning views and basic amenities. This entire region was closed off for tourism prior to 2006 when a cease fire was signed between India and Pakistan. Should you decide to go on this tour, this will explain the numerous checkpoints and signs which read “No Photography”. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Sana Dadabhoy[/caption] As we passed through Sharda, we stopped to visit the remains of a 1000-year-old monastery. You can still make out the pillars and a little bit of the architecture. It makes you envy the monks for the views they enjoyed while studying, and explains how they managed to be so positive and peaceful as well. It was there at a local tea house that I took a picture, on which my friend would later comment and say,

“It’s interesting how when you get closer to China, the architecture changes.”

“Darakht zameen ka zevar hai” (The earth adorns itself with trees) “Humaray kudrati vasail aanay wali nasloon ki amanat hai” (Our natural resources belong to our future generations, or rather, we have a moral responsibility to leave the world in a better condition for our future generations.)

When I received an invitation from the University of  Balochistan informing me that five of our engineering projects had been accepted for the first Invention to Innovation Summit – the first comment my director made was,

 “Umair, do you know the halaat (conditions) in Quetta? Taking students there can be risky!”

“Aap humaray mehmaan hain, baghair khana khaye aap nahi ja saktay”. (You are our guest; you cannot leave without eating food).

“If the gold of Reko Diq and the natural gas of Sui could not change the life of a citizen of Balochistan, what can we expect from a road of China Pakistan Economic Corridor? Will it be dealt amongst the Nawabs, the Sardars, the politicians and the generals?”

“It has gotten much better because of the FC’s strong presence, but it’s temporary.”

“Aap ko waisay hi choor deta hun, aap humaray Karachi kay mehmaan hain.” (You are our guest from Karachi; I’ll drop you free of cost).

“Aap humaray mehmaan hain.. jaanay say pehlay humaray saath chai zaroor peeni hay aap nay.” (You are our guest; you have to have tea with us before you leave).

“Kissi bhi qisim main Quetta main zaroorat ho ya pareshani ho aap humain call karna.”  (If you ever need anything or need any help in Quetta, please call me).

“Aap humaray mehman hain, kam hojayay to batayayiyeaga.”  (You are our guest, if these run out, let me know).

Standing somewhere in the middle of Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar, I guess my attire gave it away and they all greeted me with a seemingly customary “jeevay, jeevay Pakistan!” Towards the end of my trip, the salutation actually became comical – until this random shopkeeper asked me where I was from and what I felt my city represented. Before travelling to Turkey last month, I was told about Turkish hospitality and I got to witness their warmth towards desi tourists for myself. But for a total stranger to ask me what Karachi means to me, was something entirely new – I’ve never ever been asked this and hence I got to thinking. I spent my earlier days abroad and settled in Karachi when I was about 11-years-old. My parents were fond of travelling, and as a family we could be described as frequent flyers. Most of the places I have ever visited or previously called home are generally all developed countries. They can boast about being the world’s most liveable places and rightly so, because to date, they have the best of everything to offer people from all walks of life. Conversely, Karachi has everything going against it – lack of infrastructure, water problems, power outages, security issues, ethnic strifes, kidnapping, target killings and a population explosion. You name the issue and Karachi will probably be suffering from it. Yet, we can relate to the clichéd statement that tells us that no matter what, life goes on. However, people who have not experienced Karachi may not be able understand this. As for me, I have experienced Karachi. I have lived in this city for over 20 years and call it home. My elders talk about the city with the same unparalleled passion and enthusiasm that I feel when I am asked about the Karachi I grew up in. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: TripAdvisor[/caption] My parents talk about an era when everyone would agree that Karachi once had the potential of becoming Asia’s New York. The 70s witnessed the unbelievable tourism in Pakistan – across the streets of Karachi, Lahore and Swat. By the late 60s, tourism in Karachi was flourishing – to the point that in 1972, the government created the country’s first dedicated tourism ministry and department, with their main offices situated in Karachi. Karachi was the country’s economic hub and entertainment capital. I’ve been told that between the 50s and late 70s, Karachi had more than 500 cinemas, multiple night clubs, numerous bars, a beautiful race course and what are still perhaps some of the best natural beaches in the region. Hashish was easily accessible, but people still didn’t know what heroin or a Kalashnikov was. Family friends often talk about the 70s being a liberal era when alcohol and gambling were legal, but there was comparatively less crime in the city. My father tells us about how people could walk the streets of the city till late at night and no one would bother them. I was a part of this city before Atif Aslam, EP and Ali Zafar even entered the music industry. That was when every kid knew Ali Haider’s Purani Jeans aur Guitar, Sajjad Ali’s Babia and Abrarul Haq’s Billo. We loved them all, danced to them and sang along to the wonderful tunes. Around this time, we fell in love with Alpha Bravo Charlie, the one fandom that came so close to toppling Titanic’s. I take a chance in saying that this series triggered our trademark, die-hard love for our military. It showed Pakistan Army’s softer image that introduced us to the private lives of those who are supposed to protect our territory. I remember when the choice was only between kabab rolls or the restaurant Copper Kettle, and the decision depended on how many red notes one had in their wallet, not blue ones. There was no concept of elaborate frozen yogurt, but everyone loved (and I dare say, fondly misses) Snoopy Ice Cream! And yes, the best chocolate mousse was at Bake and Take. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Hot n Spicy Facebook page[/caption] This city has suffered tremendously over the years – and yet, its soul remains unchanged. We remember Operation cleanup, targeted killings and police encounters across the city we call and know as home. We remember when it was not safe to leave our homes, what it felt like to be locked within our homes and have our freedom restricted. Internal statistics say that things have improved in Karachi and we are groomed to believe that the numbers do not lie. Muggings have probably gone down. Street crimes are a lot less over the past few months and the bombings in mosques  during Friday prayers seem to be a thing of the past. But I guess people, to date, continue to associate Karachi with its not too distant tumultuous history and find it difficult to believe that things are different. This can be attributed to the press coverage we often get; the Karachi these people know from media coverage must be critically examined and rebuilt. It's not the Karachi I want and it's not the Karachi we deserve. In a sense, Karachiites redefine resilience – where people’s lives do go on despite everything. We know how to celebrate Eid and Independence Day every year. There is something special about the newly instated Sindh Day celebrated every year since 2009 on December 13th. And Defence Day is impossible without the accompanying grand air shows. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] The show wowed the audience at Sea View Beach. Photo: Athar Khan[/caption] This is what Karachi means to me – Karachi is love; it has a heart of gold. Anywhere else in the world, every other city, has a pacemaker, plated with gold. This is for everyone who can say they own Karachi – for only they will understand what I am trying to say.

Whenever the phrase ‘vacation to the Maldives’ rings our ears, turquoise waters and luxurious resorts instantly flash into our minds. In order to fully utilise their vacations, the general preference of tourists is to spend time relaxing and soaking in the beauty of beaches.  [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Land of clear waters. Photo: Ahsan Nadeem[/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Turquoise waters. Photo: Ahsan Nadeem[/caption] Conversely, my idea of traveling and vacationing is slightly different, for my chief aim is always to explore the historical and cultural aspects of different places. Therefore, my very brief yet unique trip to the land of the clear blue waters – the Maldives – persuaded me to pen down and share my experience of a wonderland from a different perspective. In pursuance of one of my uncountable goals in life – to visit the island country at least once in my life before it vanishes from the world due to prospective global environmental effects – I, along with my parents, undertook the much anticipated journey via Karachi to Colombo, and from there we made our way to the Hulhulé Island (Airport Island of the Maldives). [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="450"] Waiting for take off. Photo: Sara Aslam Basar[/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="450"] Taking off. Photo: Sara Aslam Basar[/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] The Maldives. Photo: Ahsan Nadeem[/caption] To my extreme disappointment, we landed in Maldives during a night of the crescent moon, hence there was no extraordinarily picturesque landing. Our immigration process was relatively prompt. We were received by our hotel representative at the airport, who led us to our ferry. It took us 10-15 minutes to reach the island of Malé, from where we took a five-minute bus ride to our cosy and comfortable hotel. As mentioned earlier, since our preference was to explore Maldives as a country and not spend our vacation at some picturesque or serene spot, we chose a mediocre yet ideally situated hotel with a spectacular view of the ocean and landing airplanes, within the main capital city of Malé, in order to better understand the cultural and social order of the country. However, it is pertinent to mention here that after interacting with the locals, we realised we were lucky to visit during the local holiday season, as the tiny capital was less crowded then. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="450"] The view from our hotel. Photo: Sara Aslam Basar[/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="450"] A cloudy view. Photo: Sara Aslam Basar[/caption] We were informed by our hotel staff that Malé is the world’s smallest capital, and that its total area is about five kilometres only. The climate is tropical, and the temperature hovers between 25 to 33 degrees around the year. However, according to my observation and from the local perspective, this uniformity of weather, climate and terrain can create an unpleasant monotony. I would add here that despite the non-severity of the heated weather, the water of the ocean at the three islands I experienced was lukewarm, unlike the seawater of Karachi, which is cold even when the temperature outside is 42 degrees. We also came to discover that throughout Malé, the taxis, irrespective of the distance (be it one kilometre or five) would charge a fixed fare of 25 Rufiyaa, which in my view is a good policy preventing the exploitation of innocent tourists. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="450"] Malé. Photo: Sara Aslam Basar[/caption] Generally, the public with whom we interacted, such as taxi drivers, hotel staff, children and common people travelling with us in ferries or people I met at my favourite spot, the Artificial Beach, all were unhappy with the hustle bustle and crowded environment of the capital city, and would prefer to live in their native islands, which they suggested were less crowded and more peaceful. Here I feel obliged to describe my aforementioned favourite spot, the Artificial Beach! Since Malé does not have any beach of its own, this beach has been humanly crafted out of the reclaimed land of sea in order to fill the gap. To continue, how can the cultural exploration of any land be complete without tasting its local cuisine? However, as none of us are real foodies, our focus was not on trying popular Maldivian seafood or local dishes. Instead, being fruit-lovers, we preferred spending on local fruits such as Jackfruit, Rambutan, locally grown bananas and pineapples, which we don’t find in Pakistan. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Jackfruit. Photo: Sara Aslam Basar[/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Rambutan. Photo: Sara Aslam Basar[/caption] We also had ice cream from the famous Seagull Café. Here I feel worth mentioning the subway-like bun we bought from a roadside restaurant called ‘Submarine’, which was huge and really delicious. Since the roads in Malé are non-spacious and streets are narrow, scooties and cycles are more commonly spotted than luxurious cars, and people often choose to walk to cover the small distances. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="450"] Narrow streets of Male. Photo: Sara Aslam Basar[/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="450"] The market area. Photo: Sara Aslam Basar[/caption] I noticed that, unlike the rest of the commonwealth nations, Maldivians are more fond of football than of cricket, and we spotted plenty of football grounds in the city. Indian culture is also visibly dominant in their eating habits, language and daily activities. We also happened to visit a number of attractions within the capital. The first was the National Museum of Maldives, where the guide introduced us to the Buddhist era, the rise of Islam, and the colonial as well as modern Maldivian history and culture. Next up was the Old Friday Mosque, constructed in 1656, as well as the Grand Friday Mosque situated nearby. However, since in Muslim culture women are not encouraged to enter mosques, my mother and I were not allowed to offer prayers inside. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="450"] Outside the mosque. Photo: Sara Aslam Basar[/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Old Friday Mosque. Photo: Sara Aslam Basar[/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Outside the Grand Mosque. Photo: Sara Aslam Basar[/caption] We later visited a number of parks, as well as the National Football Stadium. We also got the opportunity to briefly visit the neighbouring islands of Villingili (approximately a five-minute ferry ride from Malé) and Hulhumalé (approximately a 15-minute ferry ride and 10-minute speedboat ride from Malé). The latter is an artificial island built to meet industrial, housing and commercial requirements; it is also connected via the causeway to the Airport Island. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="450"] Hulhumalé Island. Photo: Sara Aslam Basar[/caption] [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="450"] Boats at the Hulhumalé Island. Photo: Sara Aslam Basar[/caption] My deepest regret out of the entire trip, however, was not getting enough time to visit the popular underwater Ithaa Undersea Restaurant, situated at the Rangali Island. To sum up, I would strongly recommend everyone interested in or planning to visit the Maldives, to reserve at least a few days to explore the generally ignored cultural and historical aspect of this beautiful island nation. For me, it was indeed a memorable journey, not only filled with pleasure and relaxation, but also with intellectual enrichment. Lastly, I wish to formally thank my parents who helped turn a long-awaited dream into a pleasant and memorable reality.

The entire world is familiar with the rather infamous ‘Kiki challenge’ by now. It is yet another one of those social media influenced fads, readily embraced by the younger generation, along with celebrities of course, and involves dancing on the song In My Feelings by Drake. However, one particular challenge landed both a vlogger and the Pakistan International Airlines (PIA) in trouble, and left Pakistanis wondering – why? Eva zu Beck is a Polish tourist and vlogger currently on a world tour, who recently filmed herself doing the Kiki challenge in collaboration with PIA; the latter being eager to promote itself and market Pakistan as a tourist destination. The video of Eva doing the challenge went viral, with a few TV channels even making it a bone of contention. https://twitter.com/faisalkapadia/status/1029062517857902592 However, none of this is what caused the entire ruckus. The nation would have moved on eventually, had it not been for the chairman of the National Accountability Bureau (NAB), Justice (retd) Javed Iqbal. Not only did Iqbal order a probe into the matter, but also ended up severely reprimanding PIA. Apparently, Eva dancing while draped in the Pakistani flag was a way of desecrating it. Pretty soon others jumped in too, with most people struggling to find anything objectionable in Eva’s dance, while others condemning the fact that it took place altogether. However, what piqued my interest more is, does the NAB chairman even have jurisdiction over matters such as these? Let’s suppose he does, from a legal point of view. Even then, does he not have better things to do, as the head of an institution dedicated solely for combating corruption in a country that ranks 117 (out of 180) on the watch list? Not to forget the fact that thousands of Pakistanis have been accused and even convicted of maintaining bank accounts with illicit funds in billions, as well as offshore properties, companies and money laundering networks which include some of our most prominent politicians. https://twitter.com/certifiedwhiner/status/1029028503528853507 The hullabaloo caused by Iqbal’s notice – which led to PIA dissociating itself from the video and Eva apologising for it – only made Pakistan seem more of an intolerant nation. This comes at a time when we desperately need the opposite message to be conveyed to the world; when we should be clinging to any and every opportunity to market Pakistan as a place that’s both welcoming and hospitable. Ironically, we took PIA’s attempt at promoting a positive side of the country and succeeded at conveying the opposite. https://www.facebook.com/evazubeck/videos/277964382989980/ Iqbal believes the Pakistani flag has been disrespected, and that Eva shouldn’t have been allowed to drag it along on the runway and the airplane. Perhaps the flag’s prestige has not been upheld with the way it was dragged, but should we not consider whether Eva meant to seem disrespectful? Should we not give her the benefit of the doubt, given she did the challenge with good intentions? Granted, she should have been more careful while handling our flag, but was she not sincerely doing it to present a soft image of Pakistan, to promote Pakistan? On the other hand, security concerns have been rightfully raised as to how an unauthorised person could use the runway in this manner. However, it is clear as day that the PIA was trying to tap into an international audience by filming and promoting a foreigner doing the Kiki challenge. The entire act seemed like harmless fun for a good cause, and surely, security exceptions could have been made for that. We should also be cognisant of the fact that every year, after our Independence Day has passed, millions of Pakistani flags are disposed of on the streets, telling a sorry tale of neglect and dishonour. Shouldn’t the NAB chairman also take notice pertaining to this situation? Additionally, perhaps Iqbal was unaware or deliberately ignorant of the fact that Abrarul Haq has also come under fire for stepping on the flag during a concert – an act which fits every single definition of desecration. Where was the notice for this disrespect? Are such notices reserved only for well-meaning foreign tourists doing us a favour by trying to promote a positive image of our country? https://twitter.com/MehtabRana7/status/587956513194422272 This is thus yet another instance where a stronger than necessary reaction took place on a trivial matter. Even if there was something strongly objectionable about dancing with the Pakistani flag or the fact that PIA arranged for it, surely action could have been taken without making the tourist feel unwelcome or forcing her to apologise. Unfortunately, such harsh criticism on a well-meaning tourist only vilified us globally, further strengthening the notion that we as a nation lack moderation. https://twitter.com/SirJohnRoe/status/1029044019874160640 If we continue on this path, there will be little difference left between us and the chest-thumping, jingoistic and hateful fanaticism frequently seen in India, where hostility is now equated with patriotism. South Asia already has a hate-mongering, intolerant country in its backyard; surely it does not need another one. The way Eva was dressed in a traditional shalwar kameez with the Pakistani flag in the video only shows her love for Pakistan. Therefore, we must focus on the sentiment behind her celebration rather than nit-picking to find things we don’t like in everything in a bid to seem more puritan. We should make it a point to respond to such benign, peaceful and friendly expressions with love rather than cruelty and unkindness. What Pakistan desperately needs is to encourage individuals wanting nothing more than presenting a better image of our nation, rather than disheartening them further.

“The thing about tourism is that the reality of a place is quite different from the mythology of it” – Martin Parr.

With its 27-kilometre long coastline, Karachi is lined with beaches in the south. Dotted with fishing villages, these beaches are one of the main sources of recreation and entertainment for the citizens of the metropolis. One of the most frequently visited of these is Hawkesbay, a public beach with free access situated near Kemari town. The tragedy, however, is that it has little to offer to the residents of the city. Cleanliness and hygiene, bumpy roads, absence of basic infrastructure including huts, public toilets and restaurants, are some of the issues that need to be addressed but so far very little has been done in this regard. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Hawkesbay beach in Karachi lacks basic facilities and recreational infrastructure. Hawkesbay beach, Karachi, April 15, 2018.[/caption] According to 22-year-old Usama, who was visiting the beach with his family, said

“The main issue we face is the absence of public toilets and affordable food joints in close vicinity of the beach. Food outlets located near Hawkesbay are costly. Before coming here, we have to make sure to bring snacks with us.”

“The minimum charges for these tents used as huts fall within the range of Rs1500 to 2000 for a day,” said Tauqeer Khan, a visitor at the beach. “They are charging such a big amount for only putting up a tent and that is irritating,” he said, expressing his frustration.

“The plan, aiming to rectify problems arising due to unplanned development along Karachi’s coastline, included suggestions to address the construction of formal housing and recreation-oriented amenities as well as the mushrooming of unauthorised fishing villages along the city’s coastline.”

“There is no hospital nearby,” said Mohammad Asif, manager of Pakistan Aquatic Life Saving Association (PALS) that runs lifeguard services at Hawkesbay. “We have to travel at least 20 to 25 kilometres to reach the hospital, Civil Hospital. It is the nearest one but there is a lot of traffic on the way (because of the truck stop) and during peak hours you get stuck in traffic for at least one hour,” he said.

“Our lifeguards are residents of nearby areas,” said Asif in this regard. “Though they are not formally trained, they are habitual of facing the sea from their childhood and can be relied on to carry out adequate drowning prevention exercises at the beach,” he further added.